Not only do we have to know our hair type we need to know
it's porosity as well. When I read or hear fellow naturals describe their hair
in type and porosity I am like “mehnnn….. una get time “. But we all know that
knowledge is power and using that power is even better.
So what is porosity? Simply put hair porosity is the ability
of our hair to absorb and retain moisture. Porosity is import ant in
understanding our hair and hair care since moisture is what defines and shapes
our hair (relaxed or natural). The inability of our hair to retain or absorb
moisture will minimize our hair’s health and potential growth and length retention.
The experts say that if we do not know our hair’s porosity we won’t be able to
make the best product and maintenance choices.
There are three different levels of porosity:
Low porosity: the
cuticle of the hair shaft is too dense which does not allow moisture to enter
or leave the hair shaft. Hair with low porosity are susceptible to product
build up and take a longer time to completely dry.
Normal/ medium
porosity: hair with this porosity absorbs and retains moisture well;
product properly formulated for this type of porosity will easily penetrate the
hair shaft.
High porosity:
open hair cuticle allows for moisture to be absorbed and lost easily. Overly
porous hair can be a result of over –processing from chemicals, heating etc.
Stand test:
To know your hair’s porosity you can do a simple strand/float
test. All you need is a few strands of
hair (clean with no products on it) a glass or bowl of water. Put the hair in
the water and watch to see how fast or slow the hair sinks to the bottom. Hair
with low porosity will not sink after a long period of time. Normal/medium porous hair will sink at
a pace that is not too fast or too slow (like huh?!... I Know!). Hair with high porosity will sink very quickly in
the test.
So you know your hair porosity, now what? Well now you can
buy products that are good for your hair and maintain a routine that helps
balance or maintain the health of your hair.
Hair with low porosity should avoid product build up, use
water based products but avoid over moisturizing the hair. Use indirect heat
like steam to open the cuticles, also avoid heavy butters and oils.
Normal/medium porous hair should strive to maintain a
healthy hair routine including deep conditioning, proper moisturizing and avoid
too much heat. Excessive manipulation and heat can change the porosity of the
hair.
High porosity hair require product layering to retain
moisture, heavy butters and oils work best on this hair also daily moisturizing
is necessary. Cold water rinses will help close the cuticle and protein
treatments will strengthen the hair.
To date I believe this to be the most technical post I’ve
put up. So I plan on taking the float test this weekend and will post the results and pictures next week. Have a good weekend